I left Spencer Beach Park somewhat reluctantly.It’s a nice little spot: warm, sunny, coconut palms. Leaving also meant that I’d be heading over to the wet side of the island. Hawaii — as do all of the Hawaiian islands — have wet and dry sides, also known as windward (the wet side) and leeward (the dry side). Prevailing tradewinds bring a steady parade of moisture in all its forms — clouds, rain, snow, fog — to the windward sides of each island. High volcanoes — Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea on the Big Island — catch this water, preventing it from reaching the leeward side. No moisture creates the Mordor-like lava hell-scape I cycled through a few days before.

I was also reluctant to leave because I knew I had to climb a lot that day. By the time I would reach Kalopa State Park, my next destination, I’d have puffed my way up about 1,000 metres. Phew!

Well, obviously I made it. And what a ride. The climbing was nasty but the sprinkles of rain that greeted met in the high town of Waimea — the centre of the Big Island’s cowboy country — were actually refreshing. And the ride got better. Rain means green. And it’s super green here. Past Waimea, I sailed downhill all the way, past soaring eucalyptus. A short stretch of ride was along an extravagantly pretty side road called the Old Mamaloa highway. In some parts, the greenery reached tunnel-like over me and the road. Birds were everywhere.

Kalopa State Park didn’t disappoint. Set high up the “mauka” (mountain) side, in an o’ hia tree forest, it was wet but peaceful. I stayed there two nights, spending my second day exploring the park, admiring wild hibiscus and bright-red birds (I wish I knew their name).

A nice couple drove me to the look-out of Waipi’o Valley, as well. I’d planned to cycle there too during my stay at Kalopa but again I was too bagged. The valley is very beautiful. It’s walls at about 500 feet (200 metres?) high. The valley floor is sea-level. You have to see it to appreciate it, I think. I’ll try to upload some photos shortly.